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Richard Recommends—
Q: I have noticed how beautiful Tropical Waterlilies are, though why would I spend $30 to $40 on a plant that only lasts one season outdooors?
A: It is true that Tropical Lilies begin to go dormant in water temps below 70F and will perish entirely left in water below 55F. This means most ponds in the U.S. cannot be stocked with Tropical Lilies until after Memorial Day. These plants can be removed in the fall and overwintered indoors, though most homeowners will not have the facilities needed so they become pond "annuals". The rewards make the expense worthwhile! Consider these facts: Over the course of a season Tropicals almost always produce far more flowers than thier Hardy cousins. There are varieties that produce the same colors as all the hardies, often the colors are more vibrant overall. Several varieties produce incredible blue, even purple colors, not available in any of the hardy types. Like hardies they make nice cut flowers with a more noticeable fragrance. While Hardy Waterlilies start to cease flowering around Labor Day, Tropicals continue to bloom, and may produce flowers well into November if warm fall weather persists. This greatly increases the waterlily season! Finally most pond-owners will appreciate having an "annual" waterlily so they can try a different variety each season to keep a "fresh look" in thier ponds.
Add a truly "exotic flair" to your pond with a "Night-Blooming" Tropical Waterlily. The flowers of these plants open at dusk, remain open all night, then close mid-morning the following day. Each flower lasts 3-4 days (nights) just as all other waterlilies. Combined with day-blooming varieties they can provide 24 constant hours of color in the pond!
Q: Why do my waterlilies have so many leaves turning yellow with some having visible damage?
A: As waterlilies grow they continuously produce new leaves, or pads at the center of the plant. As individual pads age the are "pushed" further out from the center and eventually turn yellow to brown. If left they will sink to the bottom and breakdown. These leaves with thier stems should be removed (weekly minimum) to help elimate a large part of the buildup of organic waste. Pruning/removing any pads visibly damaged by chewing insect larvae will be the best pest control practice, and frequent pruning should eliminate these pests. Regular, thorough pruning is the best most practical way for a pond owner to eliminate much of the organic waste, reducing nitrate production and thereby slowing algae growth. Pruning tools are available with 4 to 5 ft reaches or simply wade to reach, pinch and remove with your hands. Use "Frog Pants" Gloves and "Hip Wader" Boots to stay dry in cold water. Always prune thoroughly removing any/all dead, decaying, or damaged foliage and spent flowers from all pond plants. Remember to keep lilies fertilized, at least 10" of water over the soil and away from moving and/or splashing water.
Q:I would love to have a backyard pond. How do I start?
A: The best ponds with the happiest owners begin with careful, thorough planning from the start. Find reliable sources of information such as a good book (Ortho's "All About Building Waterfalls, Ponds and Streams is excellent) or even better a good Pond Supply Store. Any good supplier knows that providing reliable, practical information is the key to a successful, happy customer. These sources can provide answers to questions such as: What type of pond do I want? Where is the best location? Can I install it myself? How much maintenance is involved? Watergardening in general is a very easy hobby. It can become very difficult and frustrating without the proper information.
Q: Lately I've noticed my fish "gasping" at the surface and/or staying near the waterfall. Is this a sign of trouble?
A: Typically this is a sign of less than desirable dissolved oxygen levels in the water. This is generally a result of inadaquate aeration in relationship to the fish load. These ponds may appear fine until warmer water (75F and up) causes a rise in the metabolic rate of all living things creating a strong tax on the oxygen supply, depleting the overall level and affecting the fish. Dissolved oxygen is produced by plants during daylight hours so D.O. levels increase naturally starting at daybreak, but after sunset these same plants reverse this process and begin absorbing oxygen. This means the ponds D.O. level is lowest at daybreak and fish are most likely to show the "gasping" behavior at this time. This also means that plants provide no true additional aeration since they simply "give and take" over 24 hrs. The only way D.O. can be increased is by increasing the amount of water surface to air contact. Begin by assuring any floating leaf plants in the pond cover no more than 70% of the overall surface, leaving at least 30% open. Next address ways to enhance/increase water movement and/or surface agitation. An outdoor air pump with a submerged airstone is an ideal way to move deeper water to the surface, perfect for ponds with a skimmer/ waterfall system. Another idea to add D.O. and visual interest is to install a fountain or a decorative, piped statuary aka "a spitter".
For more Frequently Asked Questions click here.
Richard M. Koogle is the Vice President and Director of Operations of Lilypons Water Gardens. He has over 30 years of experience in all aspects of water gardening, and is eager to share his knowledge with your organization! Richard is a nationally recognized water garden speaker and his lectures are informative, practical, inspiring, and feature colorful slides! Contact him directly for more information: (ph)1.800.825.5459 x 1002
To find out more about Richard click here: Richard's Bio.
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